Welcome to the Climbing Training Wiki!
You can contribute
This site is about training for climbing. It is, and always will be, a work in progress. We, as a community, learn more every day, and it is hoped that we can share this knowledge freely, here.
You are free to take any content from this site. There are no restrictions. If you feel you can add back to this community, please do so. This could be anything from fixing spelling mistakes, grammar, to editing or moving content around, or creating entirely new pages. You don't have to ask permission to do this, just go for it. If you are unsure about what do do, you can use the 'Discussion' tab to form a consensus. Just remember that your work WILL be mercilessly edited by others, as everyone has access to do so.
If you see a red link, that's your opportunity to create that page! So jump on it and get your FA (First Author).
Please don't take content from other sites or authors without first asking for their permission. Write up original content from your own experiences. Instead of copy + pasting others' content, you should link to their content. This could be done either by linking directly to the website, or embedding their youtube video directly on the page.
Training by skill level
Are you an absolute beginner? The best thing to do is just climb and have fun. You shouldn't be here :) Training by skill level is a good idea. It will help you avoid injury.
- Novice - Climbing grades up to 18/5.10a/6a/V0+
- Beginner - Climbing grades up to 24/5.12a/7a+/V4
- Intermediate - Climbing grades up to 27/5.13a/7c+/V7
- Advanced - Climbing grades up to 32/5.14a/8b+/V10
- Elite - Pro level climbers, the top 0.1%
Training by discipline
Each climbing discipline places different demands on your body. As you progress up the grades, this will influence what training you must prioritise.
Climbing Specific Focus Areas
- Finger Training / Grip Strength - Structural and Neuromuscular adaptations to tendons and joints
- Forearm Hypertrophy - Build big forearms to increase endurance and power
- Upper Body Pulling Power - Generate more power from your upper body
- Climbing Techniques - Improve your exercise economy by climbing more efficiently
- Body Weight Management - Get lighter = climb better
- Stretching / Flexibility
DIY Home Training Equipment / Climbing Walls
- Building a home woodie
- Building climbing volumes
- Making your own wooden holds
- Making your own plastic holds